John Helms Gallery

My Evaluation of Fredrix's New "Watercolor Canvas"

By John Helms

This is my first attempt at painting on Fredrix's new watercolor canvas.

David Twite of Tara Picture Frames was gracious enough to give me 3 samples

to evaluate, so here goes.  ( It may take a few seconds for these images to load. )

Setting up my space for the project...I like to have everything I need within arms reach,

so I won't have to stop painting to get up and go get it. My radio is always set to my

local jazz station. It's too big for this space - I need to move it out of the way.

 

 

Step1. Selecting my subject matter from several reference photos.

 

Step2. When I finally decided what I wanted to paint, I lightly sketched it out on the

canvas using reference material.

 

I decided to paint a fly fisherman casting in a stream - this is my rough sketch.

The first thing I noticed was that the surface of the watercolor canvas didn't take pencil as

well as paper or board did. Also when I erased with my kneeded eraser, the pressure

of erasing "dented" or pushed the material, so I had to be careful not to apply too much

pressure when erasing.

 

I transferred the fly fisherman onto the canvas after I drew it on a sheet of tracing paper.

 

...so I very lightly drew the subject matter in - only outlining -no shading or detailing at all

like I would ordinarily on watercolor paper or board.

 

Step 3. Time to start blocking in some color - I started blocking in the background trees

first with antwrep blue, cad yellow medium, cad red medium, and sap green then worked

my way down. I was really surprised how my paint beaded up on top of the surface,

I guess due to sizing in the canvas paper. You can't use much water - it'll just sit on

the surface. Since I had to use less water with this canvas, I had to do repeated applications

of paint with a scumbling technique before it would finally soak into the surface.

 

Step 4. The middle-ground : I drew the outlines of the rocks in the middle ground, and

fore-ground then masked in the fisherman, some water, and the rocks in the foreground

with liquid maskit, which went on with ease because of the slick surface.

 

 

Step5. After the maskit dried, I blocked in the water in the stream with alternate strokes

of antwrep blue and yellow orchre. While I was waiting for this to dry, I went back to the

rocks in the middle-ground and added color and more detail. painted in the rocks in the

middle-ground and the water in the stream. Dang! I washed my brush out in my drinking

cup - I drank it anyway....

 

Step 6. After I took off the maskit, I had to go back over the stream with more color -

the first application only  stained the the surface. I found it necessary to go back over areas

I had already painted and sometimes in the process of correcting an area, the paint would lift

of the with only the lightest touch of my brush, which was quit frustrating. I then  painted in the

figure of the fisherman and the big rocks in the foreground, and added the tree trunks and limbs.

 

Step 7. I kept adding more detail and lifting to the fisherman, rocks in the foreground,

and the water until the painting was finished.

 

Step 8. I'm tired of working on it - it's just not working for me - I'm having to work too

hard to get the effect I want. At this point I think I'll stop.

 

Summary:

From the first step of laying down the first application of paint , this surface fought me every step of the way. I had to put

twice as much time in on this watercolor as I would have on the same subject painted on watercolor paper or board.

Maybe it's because I'm just not use to painting on a watercolor surface so different from what I'm use to, or if I painted

on it more maybe I would get use to it. All in all, I'd say that this painting was a failure - I didn't like the way it came out at

all -probably due to the lack of control I had because the watercolor canvas wasn't "user friendly"- it doesn't seem to want

to accept watercolor paint and it's resistance to water is the opposite of what watercolor painting is all about. I guess I could

work on it some more until it looked a little better, but what's the point? It just didn't work for me - I'm sorry David and

Fredrix - I really wanted it to work. The brochure that came with it is written and illustrated by Tom Lynch, Fredrix's artist

spokes-person for this new product. I have the utmost respect for Tom - apparently he made it work for him, but when the

directions said to "spray the finished painting with either a gloss or matt fixative", Whooo, Nelly -I'll have to draw the line

right here. Even though the fixative is supposed to "protect" the watercolor from UV rays, will it protect it from water or any

other liquid? I guess I'm just showing my age and not opened to new ideas, but I came from the old school of watercolor

and was taught that the only thing you put over a watercolor is glass - with a mat and a frame, of course, or shrink-wrap it

until the owner can properly frame it. Any fixative sprayed on a watercolor, in my opinion destroys the inherent esthetics 

and integrity of the medium itself. And since the wooden frame that it's stretched on is about 1 1/2 inches thick, you would

have to have it custom framed, which would run into some money. I would just paint the edges and hang it unframed.

Watercolor Canvas is also available in the standard stretcher bar size and in panels.

David Twite of Tara Picture Frames is a fine fellow to do business. They have a new line of attractive ready-made frames

which I use with my acrylics and oils. Fredrix , of course, is well-know the world over for their quality stretched cotton and

linen canvases.

Link to Fredrix Artist Canvases: www.fredrixartistcanvas.com

Link to Tara Picture Frames: www.tarafineframes.com/en/default.aspx

Below are just 8 of Tara's ready-made Frames from the "Econo" line that I use to frame my oils and acrylics. They come in all sizes and are very affordable. The only gripe I have is that the frames below only have a 1/4" rabbit to mount your canvas  in ( use canvas clips ) but if you paint on masonite or a similar thin board, it will fit perfect. I'd like to point out here that I'm not getting paid for my endorsement of Tara Frames or Fredrix Canvases - it's just my humble opinion.

 

 

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Last modified: 08/28/08